Sunday 20 January 2013

Jambalaya Diaries: Friday, January 18th

I frequently tramped eight or ten miles through the deepest snow to keep an appointment with a beech-tree, or a yellow birch, or an old acquaintance among the pines. -Henry David Thoreau, naturalist and author (1817-1862)

 

Lazy sleep-in until just before 8:00am. We had decided we would drive to see a number of plantation homes, about an hour away so I made a pot of java and fried up some kartofellage and after everyone had had what they wanted for breakfast Cora Lee packed the cooler and picnic basket and we headed out the door. Followed the I-10 out of NO towards Baton Rouge and after 45 minutes or so we turned onto L 70 to cross the Mighty Mississippi over the Sunshine Bridge to find our way, on a number of secondary highways and roads, to Nottoway Plantation. Paraphrased from a brochure:


Nottoway is the Grande Dame of Plantations, the largest still existing in the South. Its towering size, hand-carved marble mantles and intricate plaster frieze work are most impressive.The 64-room, three-story palatial mansion also incorporated one particularly interesting, innovative feature: the use of acetylene gas, produced on site, to fuel gas lamps throughout the building.



Nottoway was completed in 1859 for John Hampden Randolph and his wife, Emily Jane Liddell Randolph, and it was home to their eleven children. The mansion boasts 53,000 square feet, and originally sat on 400 acres of highland and 620 acres of swamp. It was designed by renowned architect Henry Howard of New Orleans in Greek Revival and Italianate style.



That Nottoway survived through the Civil War, a variety of owners, and disrepair to become one of the most visited plantations in the South is a testament to its original owner, John Hampden Randolph.  Randolph was an astute businessman. It was his business savvy that fostered his tremendous wealth, and his business savvy that saved Nottoway during the hard times during and after the Civil War. And, it was both his sense of grandeur and love of his family that brought Nottoway to life.

The Plantation is a restored historic Louisiana Creole plantation on the west bank of the Misissippi near Vacherie. Formerly known as Duparc Plantation, it is significant for its early 19th-century Créole-style raised big house and several surviving outbuildings, including six slave quarters. It is one of only 15 plantation complexes in Louisiana with this degree of complete structures. Because of its historical importance, the plantation is on the National Register of Historic Places. Only about eight of us on the tour, along with Rose, a wonderfully knowledgeable, enthusiastic guide. From my point of view, I think this plantation house, in spite of its relatively diminutive size, compared to Nottoway, was far more interesting in terms of the local architecture and designs for cooling the building. One of the owner's married a wine broker from Bordeaux and imported wine from France to sell along with the sugar grown on the estate. To keep the wine cool, it was stored in large ceramic vats, (originally containing olives brought from France), lowered into pits dug into the silt below the house. The vats were kept at a cool, even temperature as the silt was saturated with the cool Mississippi water, throughout the intense heat of the summer.

The tour took about an hour and and a half and it was just the four of us and Kathy, our guide, a lovely woman for LA who moved here to marry a Creole man, a musician turned handyman! Our landlord, William Banks McLintock IV, had suggested, the night before, that we should visit Laura, A Creole Plantation, to see a completely different approach. After having a delicious picnic, (We had dinner reservations for 6:00pm that evening so we didn't want to fill ourselves up beforejhand.), of two cheeses, houmas dip, gluten-free crackers, yam chips and mixed nuts on a side road off the fifty foot levee which runs along the Mississippi hereabouts, we arrives at Laura just in time for the 3:30pm tour.

The story of the remarkably strong Creole women who managed the estate for most of its history is really beyond belief and stands in marked contradistinction to life at Nottoway, and elsewhere, of course, in the South, where it was taboo to for a young lady to expose her ankles. We were told that if a young man caught a glimpse of this "limb", (even the term "ankle" was not allowed!), he would be forced to marry the woman in question. Randolph had two stairways built to the main entrance to his mansion, one for each sex, in order to circumvent this problem, At Laura, however, in the business office the women occupied, there was a bed in the corner, used when the occupants didn't sleep in hammocks on the mosqitoe-netted verandas. Apparently, the sight of this furniture always caused a great deal of embarrassment and consternation among "Les Américains ", despised, if not hated, by the Creoles, who came to do business with the plantation!

So much to see and hear that we were all sorry when tour came to a close but we had to dash, literally, as we weren't back in our car until about 4:50pm and it was at least an hour back to NO. Traffic moved quite well until we were close to the airport and then things clogged up. Peter managed to phone Lillette and we were told that our reservation would stand if we could arrive by 6:30pm. Took us more than 30 minutes to drive 10 K but we made it home by 6:05pm. The Sisterhood dashed inside to change but Peter and I simply had a snort of Jura before we changed for dinner. Made it to restaurant by 6:33 pm so we were fine. Dropped off anxious diners and was able to park just around the corner.


Suffice it to say we had a wonderful, wonderful meal. I dined on a selection of appetizers, Boudin Noir Lilette with homemade spicy mustard and cornichons and Potato gnocchi with sage brown butter and parmigiano cream, and a soup, Braised veal cheeks with baby greens and horseradish vinaigrette; for appetizers Cora Lee shared oysters with Peter while Lynne had salmon tartare. For entrées, Corinne had Grilled lamb sirloin with a salad of arugula, fried chickpeas, roasted peppers, onions, and balsamic vinaigrette; Lynne the Roasted Muscovy duck breast with cauliflower polonaise, sauteed spinach and a toasted shallot sauce and Peter the Grilled hanger steak with fries and marrowed bordelaise. Two bottles of 2010 Bodega Colomé Malbec Estate, Salta, 14.5%, which went down all too smoothly and quickly! Everyone was pleasantly full after the delicious, delicious food so we declined dessert and made our way back to the car and home, but a short drive away. Lynne was sleepy so she went to bed shortly after we were home but CoraLeeta, Peter and I played three-handed bridge until just after 11:00pm, the Lads sipping malt, Coriandre glugging white wine! Pleased to say I came out the winner with 1000 points, followed by Cora Lee with 570 and then Petros with 390. We congratulated one another and then said goodnight. What a glorious day indeed!

Domani we off to see a parade at 6:00pm in French Quarter, followed by another meal at a restaurant named, Bayona, researched by The Sisterhood!  To be continued...

I'm sick and in a perfect world my Mama would just appear in a puff. However, she is too busy partying in the French Quarter of New Orleans with Poppa and friends to worry about me...anyways Pierre Prince got me a Slurpee...and who says men can't nurse?
 
  
Hi Goils!
Terribly sorry to hear about Rae! Glad accident wasn't more serious and that she seems to be recovering with Joey's loving ministrations. Please send along our best wishes for a full and speedy recovery!

Sorry for not being able to tell you more, right now, about our wonderful day yesterday but we are simply having a marvellous time. Went of a culinary history tour, yesterday, in French Quarter. Remarkable! Gang are shouting for me to come downstairs as we are off to drive to see a number of plantation homes, about an hour away. Dinner reservations for 6:00pm this evening, down the street, Magazine, from our place. Much Love to Tinsel Towners and Vancouverites! Dad!


Well thank god your sending short emails and enjoying yourself. But you could send some photos!!
xx Chloe Alexis Yes, what Chloe said! 

 

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