Thursday 31 January 2013

Jamabalaya Diaries: Thursday, January 31st

I shall live badly if I do not write, and I shall write badly if I do not live. -Francoise Sagan, playwright and novelist (1935-2004)

Grand Case!

Patrick James Dunn And here we thought that Hallmark was just warm and fuzzy cuddly movies! Nana's at Ski's yoga class with Ronaldo. We just returned from a local bus tour, (Took one mini-bus from place to place, got off, wandered around, etc., and then caught next bus which would take us further along route we had mapped out for ourselves.), of most of the island so really enjoyed seeing different parts of the quite hilly/mountainous interior as well as different coastlines.

Up at just after 7:00am to ready a pot of java for Ski, (She was doing yoga stretches in the living room and on the patio before I was up.), and Ronaldo, (He usually leaves at 6:30am for an hour's walk on beach at Mullet Bay), before I headed over to the gym. Did 70 minutes this morning but had to endure watching Mike and Mike in the Morning, (Couldn't find the remote to change channels!), broadcasting live from New Orleans, talking about the coming Superbowl. Only thing that saved me was that I couldn't hear but the odd word as the noise from the other treadmills and stationary bikes drowned out what is, for me, mindless commentary about a sport I don't really give a fig about!

Sopping, I made my way back, at 8:45am, to apartmento 418, to be immediately accosted by Cora Lee who told me, in no uncertain terms, that since the maid, (University provides cleaning once a week.), was to arrive at 9:00am I needed to be quick about my shower. Obedient boy that I am, I poured myself a cup of java and made for bathroom to scrub and polish. Emerged squeaky clean, towel wrapped around me to meet Martha. Jolly personality and she wasn't the least bit fussed about place not being empty so once I'd changed I whipped up a scrumptious plate of scrambled eggs, fried oniones and topped with a few slices of Brie. Added a few good dashes of Kalina, local hot sauce, mango, Ski had bought at the market in Marigot yesterday. Of course, The Sisterhood crowded around me, instantly, once I'd transferred my concoction from the frying pan to my plate, (After castigating me for messing up the kitchen!), elbowing me aside, insisting on such large nibbles and hearty tastes that there was barely anything left for me when all was said and done!

Did dishes quickly, put on sun screen and said goodbye to Martha. Ski had left to hide out in the gym a few minutes earlier so we made our way, down University Drive to the bus stop, just across the street from the Atlantis World Casino, (stopping at one f the patio restaurants to obtain change, ($1 bills), for mini-bus), on Rhine Road. Only had to wait a few minutes, (Barely had time to read but a few pages of White Heat.), before bus came along. We were first passengers aboard, with the exception of a chap sitting up front with driver, so we had our choice of seats. Pleasant drive as we followed the same route we had taken, (in reverse, of course), from the Princess Julianna International Airport, in Simpson Bay,  when we first arrived, across the Welfare Road and Simpson Bay Bridge, (One needs to be mindful of the times it opens as the road around the Simpson Bay Lagoon features two drawbridges which cover channels connecting the lagoon with the open sea. At different scheduled hours the bridges open for yachts to transit and thus the car traffic is stopped. Planning the bridge opening imes saves one from being caught in a traffic jam. Roads are clogged enough as it is.), to Cole Bay.  

 Apparently, St. Maarten/St. Martin is called the Garage of the Caribbean as many of the large yachts cruising in this pat of the world come here to be repaired/outfitted, etc., as well as to be stored. Another view of Port de Plaisance, this time looking north, with its assembled yachts, masses of the monster craft, as we approached SBB. Up the fairly steep Cole Bay Hill with a simply grand view back over Simpson Bay Lagoon, Mullet Pond, housing/hotels in Cupecoy and Terres basses beyond.

Alighted from the bus near the start of the outdoor market stalls in Philipsburg and Cora Lee found a black, straw fedora which looked rather jaunty upon her pretty head. Paid $15 for the chapeau, down from original asking price of $20. Wares are similar to the offerings for sale wherever one happens to be, whether in Patagonia or Guayabitos or Hong Kong, inasmuch as one finds the same trinkets and ornaments and articles of clothing, over and over again, particular to the given locale, of course, but usually identical in terms of quality, or lack thereof, and possessing the aesthetics and charm of mass production. Undeterred, I search for something that will catch my eye and suit my pocketbook and was rewarded when I came upon two metal, colourfully painted roosters, about the length and width of my hand span. Didn't want to buy them right away as wasn't sure what other selections might be had elsewhere. Thanked the proprietress and made a note of the shop's location should I wish to return.

We continued on to the pier to take a look at the three cruise ships in port. Felt a bit superior to the passengers who had just come ashore, "locals" that we were, but knew exactly how many of them felt, I'm sure, thinking back to our own experiences when we'd disembarked at the various stops along the coast of South America, from Valparaiso, round the Horn and then to Buenos Aires. Was fun to chat, briefy, with a one of about twenty cyclists, all kitted out, who were being briefed on their ride to come. Also had the chance to talk to one of the leaders of the group, a young woman, who told me where to inquire about renting bikes, etc., at TriSport, in Simpson Bay or Marigot. More curious than anything else as I'm not sure I really want to ride here, at least on the roads we've been on so far.

Back onto Voorstraat/Front Street to be accosted by more hawkers and touts for jewelry stores. Extricating ourselves from their clutches we strolled along, window shopping, until we bumped into a camera shop so I decided to inquire about the Cannon G1 X as I'm curious about this latest offering. I own a G11 and Chloë the G12. I certainly don't need another camera, (I hardly use but a fraction of my current camera's features, I'm sure!), but I'm always interested to take a look. Under $500US so not a bad price as I think they were around $800 when they came out a year ago. Anyway, I settled on a new strap, a BlackRapid, an over the shoulder affair. Not sure yet, if I like it or not. While it isn't around my neck, as such, I haven't yet found a comfortable strap length that allows the camera to hang where I want it, while walking, and be readily and easily accessible for shots as I come upon them. Camera actually hangs upside down, from the tripod screw mount. Perhaps once I've played around with different lengths, over the next few days, I'll determine how best to wear it. As well, I don't like the fact that I have to unscrew attachment each time I need to remove the chip. The mount prevents the card/battery cover from opening enough to remove one or the other.

 More meanderings after the purchase to scope out hootch prices in one of the many Duty Free stores lining the narrow, palm lined thoroughfare. Found a St Maarten dark rum for $5 so hope to try it out before we leave. The Mount Gay Eclipse Black was only $17, $5 cheaper than at the Maho Market, our first stop after landing! Next stopped to take a look at the Court House and then the Methodist Church, the latter built in 1851, both very well maintained and preserved historical buildings. After that we waited for the next mini-bus to take us to Marigot, via Union Road, east of SBL, past Almond Grove, Bellvue, St James and Concordia, some of the neighbourhoods and communities surrounding Marigot. Bit of excitement when we entered the outskirts of Marigot when our driver kept the van moving, albeit slowly, fortunately, when a woman was attempting to board. (I was sitting right next to the sliding door so all of the ensuing action unfolded in front of me!) She fell backwards as the van moved away from her but was able to keep upright by holding onto a door handle. Before I even had a chance to react, (At first I thought that the woman was going to hop aboard, something I assumed was usual practice.), a cacophony of outraged voices from the two female passengers sitting ahead of us alerted the driver to the plight of the woman and he stopped the vehicle.

The still struggling passenger righted herself and turned away from the bus door in obvious dismay, disgust and annoyance, refusing to chance another clambering, leaving the driver to bear the continued, heated wrath of the two females who vehemently berated him for his apparent dangerous driving, aided and abetted by another woman, a pedestrian, who chanced to come along the sidewalk as the urban drama was being played out. To the extent that I could make out what was being shouted, the driver seemed to be saying that the potential passenger gave no verbal indication that she wanted to climb aboard so that is why he did not stop. In his defense, I thought, at one point, that the woman in question was simply shutting the car door, something I had seen done on a number of occasions by people waiting for other mini-buses to come along. 

Kora J Pridy

Nonetheless, passengers and driver were still arguing in an endless, loud loop of accusation/denial/accusation/denial when the women finally reached their stop. I was a tad concerned, myself, while all this backing and forthing was going on, that we might have an auto accident of our own since the driver's attention was most definitely otherwise engagedI Gather they were none to happy to pay him and believe they admonished him to take better care even as they dismounted. As we drove off, they were still jabbering and waving their arms, the driver muttering imprecations under his breath. In Flight entertainment, all for $2, (ticket price), and you don't need headphones, Dear Reader! Not really a laughing matter, of course. It could have turned into a very nasty accident but it was such an unfettered display of emotion, on both sides, (Interestingly enough, the aggrieved party simply walked away.), that is was both mesmerizing and surprising because people here are invariably polite and friendly. People always say good morning or good afternoon when they board so it was a bit of a shock when all hell broke loose, so to speak.

At any rate, a few minutes later driver let us off at the stop where we were to catch the next bus which would take us to Grand Casse. We had no sooner crossed the street when we found the bus we needed, (Signs displayed on the dashboard alert one to the vehicle's destination.), and since there were two available seats left, we climbed aboard. I sat at the very back while Cora Lee squeezed into a space closer to front. Most of the passengers were school kids returning home, we assumed. Lovely drive through hilly terrain, once we left Marigot behind, passing by the communities of Agrement and Rambaud, with a reasonably steep climb over/around Mt O'Reilly near La Savanne. Fairly close to Grand Case itself, we had to stop for some road works and our driver was quite fussed with workers who seemed to be blocking the way for no apparent reason. Didn't take long for another shouting match to develop so I gather Road Rage is universal!   

Kora J Pridy

 Bus began to empty as we neared the center of the town and after one stop the driver had to ease past some young women walking down the centre of the narrow street. They were not happy with the driver edging the car past them so they started to swear at him and he retaliated by leaning out of his window and swearing right back at them until the air was blue with what I gather was the "F" word in whatever language or dialect it was hurled! From the slightly embarrassed smile on the face of the young woman one seat ahead of me, I understood that he was telling them, in no uncertain terms, to do to themselves precisely what they had suggested he do to himself.

Few minutes later driver dropped us off on Rue de la Petit Plage and indicated where we needed to catch our next bus. We thanked him and walked the short distance to take a look at the gorgeous beach which stretches for most of the way along Baie de Grand Case. Took a number of snaps and then we scoped out a few restaurants for a bite of lunch. Settled upon Tropical Groove where we sat on a covered patio looking out over the wonderful azure, mirror calm bay, with Creole Rock visible between the the bobbing sailboats. Coriandre ordered a bbq'd chicken leg/thigh with rice and green and potatoe salad while I tried the fish cakes, cole slaw and Johny Cake, a bit like Whale's Tail, (smaller, without the sugar dusting), or bannock or damper but not as dense. I was a bit surprised as I've always known Johny Cake to be made with cornmeal. Mom used to call hers corn pone and I assumed it was spelled with two "n's" as in "Johnny Cake! Nevertheless, it was very good and although she put up a good front, I know CoraLeeta was the tinniest bit grumpy as she couldn't have any, it not being gluten-free!

After paying our bill and using the bathroom, (Poor Coramandel was back in Turkey as toilet bowl didn't have a seat. This, of course, only added to her grumpiness, Dear Reader!), we strolled the length of  Rue de la Petit Plage, enjoying the colourful homes, shops, restaurants, bars and galleries which lined both sides of the narrow, reasonably quiet street. Spent about half an hour meandering and snapping a few shots, strolling along until the RdlPP became Boulevard de Grand Case. Followed this thoroughfare to where it intersected with road that would take us to Orient Bay.

Kora J Pridy

Only had to wait for a few minutes before we flagged down a mini-bus that was headed there and we were soon threading our way towards the east coast. Some lovely views of the sea and coastline, once over Mont Vergna, as we descended towards the Quartier D'Orleans. We had decided that we wouldn't do any exploring at this bus stop so when we alighted next to a very well-stocked fruit stand, to await our next connection, we sat in the shade fro a bit and then I walked across the street to look inside the store which advertised housewares. I was looking for a bamboo container to hold kitchen utensils. Anna Marie Tremonte has one in her kitchen but Ski doesn't so I was hoping to find one for her. Nothing of the sort to be had and I was deliberating over a small vase that might have worked when I spied CoraLeeta, through the  store window, waving frantically. The bus had arrived so using that as my getaway excuse I hurried back to the stop to board the van. First one that was air-conditioned and as it was quite warm by this time, 2:30pm, we didn't mind at all. 

Very pleasant ride back to Philipsburg via the Dutch Quarter and Madame Estate and then we were back in the outskirts of PB on Great Bay. We asked the driver to let us off at the start of the open air market on Hendrik Str and I made my way to the shop where I'd found the two roosters. Managed to bargain proprietress down from $20 to $18 apiece but she would go for $15. Think she might have done so if I'd walked away but I didn't really care at this point so shelled out my cash and collected The Power Shopper at the boutique next door  before we caught our last bus, further along Achterstraat, (Back Street), in the shade, near the corner of Dam Steeg. Most of the buses were quite full by this time of day, 3:30pm, as I gather students and workers were making their way home. This being the case, I found myself sitting up front, next to the driver, while Coriandre was a few seats back. I was quite pleased to be in the passenger seat as I had an unfettered view of the road ahead and an unobstructed view of both sides as well.

Kora J Pridy

We set off, making more stops to collect fares and discharge passengers, than on any of the previous rides, so I had plenty of time to observe people and places, sights and sounds alog the route. At one point the driver pulled up next to another mini-bus and talked with the driver for a few minute, oblivious the traffic waiting behind. A few minutes later, seats behind were all taken so I had to sit on the small, raised seat immediately beside the driver, surrendering my spot to allow for full capacity. Not that I minded, of course, as I was planning to interrogate the driver, at some point, and this now gave me an even better physical location from which to grill my chauffeur! 

Before I started the cross-examination, I realized I was thirsty but Cora Lee was carrying the unfinished water bottle we'd brought from lunch so I didn't quite know how I would slake my thirst. Remembered I had a package of gum in one of my pockets  so took it out and was planning to offer some of the pieces to the driver. Thought that he would then be obliged or at least more willing to answer my questions. However, even before I had a chance to do so, he had held out his palm. Delighted, I popped two pieces out of the blister pack and told him, as I was doing this, that I needed $2. This was the per person fare cost. He laughed and the interrogation proceeded forthwith!

Kora J Pridy

Turned out that he is originally from Haiti and has been here for about ten years, along with his wife and three children. He lives in Cole Bay and owns his own vehicle. I asked him about the licence and the process of obtaining one, etc. Much like any other taxi-cab licencing system, I gather, with government, (in this case), or some other agency controlling number of permits issued, regulations, etc. He said that if you had a relative in a position of power you could probably obtain a licence whether they were being issued or not. Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose! Moving on to other topics, I asked him what he was talking to the other driver about and he said their exchange had to do with a local soccer team that they both support. Turns out he is quite a soccer fan and he corrected me when I mentioned that Beckham was returning to England. I'd seen part of a  clip on TV that morning while in the gym on the stationary bike but didn't realize it was after the signing with
Paris-St. Germain.


Very, very friendly and informed chap. I had already gathered that opinion of him and it was great to chat as we made our way up and over Cole Bay Hill. However, it was soon made even more apparent when we collected another passenger, in Cole Bay. Turned out he was Brazilian, a 6th generation national with family originally from Germany and Italy. He is a retired airline pilot who flew for VARIG but know flies Piper Cubs from the Piper factory in Vero Beach, Florida to Brazil. He had left the US a few days before, first stopping in the Turks and Caicos Islands to overnight and then to St Maarten. He had brought one of his daughters along and they were leaving the next day for Grenada, then on to somewhere in northern Brazil. At any rate, our driver was soon berating the unlucky Brazilian for the fact that the 2014 World Cup in Sao Paulo, (along with soccer games during the 2016 Summer Olympics), would likely be disasters due to lack of transportation infrastructure, stadia, crime and corruption. Our new friend could not but wholeheartedly agree. The driver, himself, plans to attend the World Cup but will stay in Argentina for most of his time on the continent, flying, I gather into Brazil for a number of games! When our Brazilian friend alighted near Sonesta Maho Beach Resort on Rhine Road, we wished him luck on his coming flights and waved goodbye. 

Kora J Pridy

 As it turned out, this was where our driver turned around as this is where Mullet Bay, (sign on dash), is considered to start. I didn't realize that Cupecoy, where AUC is located, was one stop further north, in a different bus zone/section, so to speak. Not a big deal as he was more than prepared to take us past the Mullet Bay Golf Course and right to the security gates of the campus, saving us from even the short walk up University Drive. Thanking him for his kindness, we alighted, saying we hoped we'd catch him again before we left the island. He chuckled and sped away in search of more fares.

Back to Apartmento 418 to find Ski poring over a recipe for Thai Sweet Corn Soup. While Cora Lee helped with the preparation I had a quick shower and once changed I threw together another large green salad, topped with avocado slices, using one of the monsters we'd bought from a roadside stand the day before. I'd never seen such large fruit before  and wondered if the size might affect the taste and texture. Was more than pleased to find it was perhaps even creamier and tastier than any I've ever had. Squeezed copious amounts of lime juice over the arranged slices to keep them from turning brown until we were ready to dine. 

Tremonte and Dennisovitch knocked on the door just after 7:00pm and we poured them drinks and chatted about our respective days. The Goils had set a pot of rice to boil and when that was ready we sat down to a truly delicious meal, Casillero del Diablo Sauvignon Blanc and Carmenere flowing like water as we enjoyed the scrumptuosity set before us. French Chocolate Truffles for dessert so we were very well served by all of the Food Gods.
Snort or two of Mount Gay Eclipse as we chatted for half an hour or so before saying goodnight to both our guests and our hosts. Brushed and flossed and was so pleasantly tired by day's outing and getting to know the island that I could barely keep my eyes open once my head hit the pillow. Cora Lee was already sound asleep so I turned out the bedside lamp, (Duct-tapped to the top, (by Ronaldo shortly after we arrived), of the headboard, in the middle, to give equal light to both sides of the bed.), and drifted off thinking about the more than de-lovely azure sea enfolding Baie Grand Case.

To be continued...

Dear Patrick and Corinne

Great to hear from you!  What wonderful pictures and how interesting to be staying at the American University of the Caribbean.  You do manage to enjoy wonderful travels! Thanks for updating us and I loved the shots of the white white sand and blue blue waters and to think they are warm is paradise.  I will content myself with Lord Byng pool and the snow on the local mountains. 

I was talking with you the other day as I ran into Helene Redding at the HOB a thrift shop on Dunbar street where she volunteers.  We shared news about UBC people we shared in common and it was good to learn about her children--she has a son taking the BEd program right now and her daughter is married and living in Dublin.


I am currently on study leave so life is very good.  We just returned from ALA Midwinter in Seattle and I stayed an extra day to attend the ALA Youth Media Awards--haven't ever attended and it was a blast--young adult librarians cheering and hooting as the honor books and winners were announced.  It was fun.  Colin and I simply attended the exhibits so it wasn't too costly and I always love Seattle.  We went to see the Dale Chihuly Garden and Glass Exhibit at Seattle Centre --it truly is wonderful -- very much a must see
http://www.chihulygardenandglass.com/plan-your-visit?gclid=CIu3q4S6k7UCFYl7Qgod-H4Aog His use of color and glass is amazing.

We missed you for Bobbie Burns day and given that it coincided with ALA Midwinter we actually did not celebrate this year.  Will save that for Scotland and we are planning a trip to the UK in March.


It is a big anniversary for us this weekend so we are headed to Victoria for the weekend.


Have been in touch with Gary and Di.  Gary is busy working on a Westend History project which he is very excited about and he is now good friends with Matt Hartman who lives near Gaz on the Sunshine Coast.

Music library will be closing--which I am sure you heard.  Kirsten Walsh retired end of December. 

Don Fisher and Dan Pratt will retire end of June--not sure if you know him from the Faculty of Education.
Peter Moody and his wife Susan were attacked by a grizzly bear close to their home in Cranbrook.  They survived by Susan was mauled pretty bad and will require reconstructive surgery --for her face.
I see Pamela Black quite often and she is feeling a bit more optimistic as she has been approved for some great physio at GF Strong.  Up until now nobody really gave a damn about her.

So for now please take care and keep in touch. 
Look forward to getting together with you in the months ahead. Fondest wishes always  Jo-Anne and Colin


 

 


 

No comments:

Post a Comment