Patrick James Dunn Pleased that correct spelling/grammar is still high on your agenda even when suffering from a nasty cold! Plenty of nuts, of every kind, on display, in the parade and on the outrageous floats last night for the start of Mardi Gras!Up at 7:00am to creep downstairs to make java and put the dishes away. Stole upstairs before anyone appeared and worked away at the Jambalaya Diaries until about 8:00am when Madame Coriandre stirred and I could hear Dom Jugos in the kitchen/dining/living room downstairs. Went to chat with Petros while CoraLeeta had her shower and when she was finished I proceeded with my own ablutions. Back downstairs the assembled gang were planning the day. We had agreed, the night before, to have brunch at Surrey's Cafe & Juice Bar but a block and a half down Magazine. Our building is on the corner of Melpomene and Magazine and the restaurant is just past Terpischore, heading south. As you can tell, Dear Reader, the streets in our neighbourhood are named after eight of the nine Ancient Greek Muses. In order, after the Pontchartrain Expy, Calliope, (Epic poetry), Clio, (History), Erato, (Love Poetry), Thalia, (Comedy), Melpomene, (Tragedy), Terpischore, (Dance), Euterpe, (Song and Elegiac Poetry) and Polyhymnia, (Hymns), spelled Polymnia here.
Ayn P
Beautiful morning so we enjoyed waiting outside the busy place until we could be seated. Bustling place once inside with brightly coloured models of various typical New Orleans homes adorning the walls. I ordered Corned Beef Hash, ($10.00), chunky sauteed corned beef, boudin,andouille sausage, and hashbrowns, topped with two eggs and a house-made biscuit. CoraLeeta decided upon the Crab Meat Omelette ($12.50), stuffed with avocado and Brie cheese, topped with a creamy lump crab sauce, served with toast or biscuit but she was able to substitute hash browns for non-gluten free products! Petrovitch had his favourite, Huevos Rancheros, ($8.50), two corn tortillas layered with black beans, topped with two eggs (sunnny-side-up, in his case), cheddar, molé sauce & pico de gallo while Lynne opted for the Roasted Veggie Omelette, ($9.00), filled with balsamic roasted veggies with a biscuit.
Food was simply scrumptious, service friendly and very efficient and we delighted in our good fortune to have such a spot within such easy walking distance. Struck up a conversation with a young couple sitting across from our table, two teachers from Grenoble, here for a year where there are teaching French in an immersion program in Lafayette. The wife was pregnant and the child will be born while they are still in Louisiana, in April. After polishing off our tasty meal, The Sisterhood picked up the tab and we wished the French couple well and set out for a day of museum going.
Cora Lee and I wanted to visit Confederate Memorial Hall Museum while Lynne and Peter wished to tour the National WWII Museum, a huge, huge complex. (One wing, The US Freedom Pavilion: The Boeing Center, had just opened and another, adjoining part, a massive edifice, was still under construction.) Since both were in the same vicinity we walked north on Magazine together and made plans to meet at Faulkner House Books at 2:00pm once we arrived at the WWII Museum's entrance, near the corner of Andrew Higgins.
When we arrived at what we had come to call the Civil War Museum we discovered it was closed! Fortunately, for us, the Ogden Museum of Southern Art is located immediately next door and adjacent to Lee Circle, . It is associated with the University of New Orleans and its focus is the visual arts and culture of the American South within the context of the region's history and culture.
To exhibitions, in particular were remarkable. The first, Michael J. Deas, was not known to me but I soon discovered I'd seen some of his work:
Michael J. Deas is a master realist painter and one of the nation’s premier illustrators. Working from his studio in New Orleans’ historic Vieux Carré, he creates paintings and drawings with an elegant eye and a mastery of the oil medium unusual in a contemporary context.
As an illustrator, Deas has painted twenty-one US postage stamps, including the Tennessee Williams, Katherine Anne Porter, Bette Davis, Meriwether Lewis, William Clark, and two of the best-selling postal stamps in U.S. history, Marilyn Monroe and James Dean. His work has been featured on the cover of six editions of Time magazine and dozens of book covers. Easily one of the most widely seen images in the world, his painting for the Columbia Pictures logo was commissioned in 1993.
One of his most interesting and comic works, for me, at least, was his Cows in History, based on Washington Crossing the Delaware, both playful and unsettling.
A much more difficult exhibition was Deborah Luster: Tooth For an Eye: A Chorography of Violence in Orleans Parish:
Deborah Luster is known for her lush black and white photographs that document the rituals and customs that surround the culture of the American South and in particular, Louisiana. Over the past decade, Luster has been making photographs that explore the effects of crime, punishment and violence in Louisiana. Here Luster focuses her camera on an invisible population - people who exist only as a memory - homicide victims.
Each photograph lists the following:
Location - Tulane Avenue at Dupre, Le Petit Motel (Mid City)
Date (s) - April 4, 2008, 3:30 a.m.
Name (s) - unidentifed woman (20)
Notes - Gunshot wound to head.
There are no people in any of the photographs so the images seem even more chilling. In one section, there are two iPads, mounted behind frames, one showing video images, almost mug shots, of Family, the other, Friends, of the victims. The dazed looks of loss, bewilderment and anguish are heart-rending.
Not everything is so bleak, however, as much of the collection is delightful, brightly coloured, animated folk art and another exhibition, Self-taught, Outsider and Visionary Art "showcases works from The Ogden Museum’s growing collection in this genre. Including a range of work - from the naïve abstracted landscapes of Civil War veteran Charles Hutson (1840 - 1936) to Elayne Goodman’s Altar to Elvis, which borrows liturgical forms to represent a secular icon.
Of particular interest in the context of New Orleans’ hosting of the Super Bowl in 2013 will be the installation of Benny Day’s 1950 sculpture, LSU vs. Oklahoma. The 1950 Sugar Bowl, played in Tulane Stadium on January 2, pitted the Oklahoma Sooners against a football squad labeled the "Cinderella Team" - namely Louisiana State University Tigers. (Oklahoma won the game, 35-0.) LSU vs. Oklahoma depicts a play in the game, and features 96 intricately carved figurines in balsa wood, spread over a 5'-by-8' football field."
Well pleased with our time here we meandered towards the French Quarter, enjoying the sights and sounds of the narrow streets filled with other tourists and locals, many revelers already well on the way to hangovers I would suspect. A few minutes before 2:00pm we found our way to 624 Pirate's Alley, once the rooming house where William Faulkner lived in 1925 while writing his first novel, Soldiers' Pay. Lynne and Peter were not there and after chatting with Jo-Anne, the Manager of the book store, about the store itself and New Orleans in the aftermath of Katrina, we asked her where we might find a place to have a milkshake. I was quite thirsty by this time but really didn't want a coffee and seemed to have developed quite a craving for an ice-cream malt.
Jo-Anne told us about Stanley, just off Jackson Square, and said she would re-direct L/P upon their arrival so we threaded our way through all sorts of buskers, magicians, musicians, tarot card readers and artists, all touting their wares or services. We only had to wait a few minutes for a seat at the bar and then we ordered. I had a pecan pie milkshake and Coriandre a root-beer vanilla float, both with a cherry on top, and a dish of fries! Our order had just arrived when Peter and Lynne walked in and they decided upon milkshakes as well. They slurped theirs, (vanilla for Lynne, pecan pie for Petros), standing beside us as place was really busy and they really didn't want to sit down anyway.
When they had polished off their shakes we took our time moseying through the aforementioned buskers to the Louisiana State Museum:
"The Presbytere, originally called the Casa Curial (Ecclesiastical House), derives its name from the fact that it was built on the site of the residence, or presbytere, of the Capuchin monks. It was designed in 1791 to match the Cabildo, or Town Hall, on the other side of St. Louis Cathedral. As with the Cabildo and the Cathedral, construction was financed by philanthropist Don Andres Almonester y Roxas. The second floor, however, was not completed until 1813, when the Wardens of the Cathedral assumed responsibility for the final phase. The building initially was used for commercial purposes until 1834 when it became a courthouse. In 1847 the structure's mansard roof was added. The Presbytere was then used by the city as a courthouse until 1911 when it became part of the Louisiana State Museum."
Here we first took in Living with Hurricanes KATRINA & beyond and it was both moving and an eye-opener. I was reminded of the museum visit in Darwin in 2010 when we were introduced to Cyclone Tracy and the devastation it wreaked upon that city in 1974. Here, "the multimedia exhibit explores the history and human drama of superstorms. Accessible rather than scholarly, the audio and video pieces are most effective at telling individual tales with appropriate shock, heartbreak, humor, and optimism. A replica attic with a crude hole in the ceiling displays the actual axe used by one woman to escape through her own roof; her recorded voice recounts the event. Hands-on scientific exhibits explain what happened with levees, wetlands, and storm-tracking -- and what actually should happen. On one wall hangs a man's blue jeans, on which he inscribed his name, blood type, and next of kin's phone number in bold marker down the left leg, should he need to be I.D.'d. The moving exhibit stops short of being overwhelming (and just scratches the surface of some relevant sociopolitical topics) and provides a solid foundation for understanding New Orleans in both its pre- and post-Katrina contexts."
Could have spent hours pouring over the displays but time would not permit as museum was to close at 4:30pm and by this time it was just before 4:00pm and we wanted a quick look at the Mardi Gras museum, on the floor above. It really did provide a superb, informative overview of the complex history of the city's major holiday, so much more than just be-drunken rowdies displaying nekkid body parts! "Five major themes trace the history of this high-profile but frankly little-understood (outside of New Orleans) annual event. The attention to detail covers everything from elaborate Mardi Gras Indian costumes to antique Rex Queen jewelry, and a re-creation of a float allows you to pretend you are throwing beads to a crowd."
In one section, "They Call Me Baby Doll", A Mardi Gras Tradition, a fascinating, special show explores the 100-year history and cultural significance of African-American women in masking as Baby Dolls during Mardi Gras.
'Dating to about 1912 among women working in city's red-light districts, the Baby Doll tradition both embraced and mocked stereotypes of women as "babies" or "dolls" in popular culture, especially in Ragtime hit songs like Pretty Baby (1912) and Oh, You Beautiful Doll (1911). Early groups paraded in scandalously short satin dresses, stockings with garters and frilly baby bonnets. The costumes and high-strutting dance steps survive today as the tradition has passed to a new generation of African-American women and become a cherished highlight of the New Orleans Carnival."
Well, well pleased with the day's round of museum-going, we walked back to Canal Street to hop a bus, ($1.25, exact fare Please!), home. Great connection as stop is right across the street from our place at 1332 Magazine. Once home, The Sisterhood relaxed, sipping wine, (Alamos, Salta, 2011 Torrontes, 13.5%), while The Sherpas were sent to Breaux Mart to shop for chicken and salad fixings. Back to prepare dinner, we opened another white, (Passalacqua, Sonoma, 2011 Sauvignon Blanc, 14.4%), while Dom Jugos did incredible chicken thighs in two frying pans; I tossed a green salad; Cora Lee put rice on to boil and Lynne steamed broccoli.Once the meal was ready we sat down with a red, (Zichichi, Sonoma, 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon, (Napa fruit), 14.1%), to enjoy the tasty meal and chat about our day.
All had been timed to be finished dinner by 8:00pm so that we could watch Downton Abbey, all being loyal followers of this engaging BBC series. Once the Grantham family's trials and tribulations were over, for another week, Lynne hied herself tot he kitchen sink and beavered away at the pots and pans while rest of us, fortified with a De La Montanya, Russian River, 2010 Primativo, 16.1%,played three-handed bridge. Once her scullion tasks were completed, Lynne said goodnight and was soon in Snoresville! The card sharps, aided by maltage, at this point, played on for an hour or more and then we too repaired to bed. Cora Lee was already asleep by the time I had brushed and flossed and I only managed a few pages of White Heat before I could barely keep my eyelids open. I shut off the bed-side lamp and drifted away, chuckling to myself at Deas' cows crossing the Delaware! To be continued...
Things are great here. Dusty and Claire are coming for dinner and we will do something for her birthday next Sunday. Take care and say hi to everyone. Wayne
Hi Patrick.
Thanks for your email and interesting photos. Sounds like you are making good use of your time down there. Your description of your tours of the plantations made me want to dig out my copy of Gone with the Wind again and start reading! The description of the food, much of which sounds alien to me, made my mouth water. My brother, who lives in Toronto used to visit New Orleans years ago, since I believe one of his clients had a place there. He said at the time it was a mix of bohemians and the well healed (I assume you are the latter!!)
Update on the little piggies. The owners of the building on 6th offered Krissy and Mark a new lease but there were complications. Firstly, the advice from the solicitor was that if they accepted the lease and moved back in the chances are that Todd would still have a claim for the balance of the sale of his business and the chances of getting their deposit back from him would be slim. Secondly, they discovered that the vent system in the kitchen was not sufficient for the type of cooking they are doing. They checked with coastal health and they advised them that they would require a commercial venting system since they are in an apartment complex. The cost of such a system would be upwards of $50,000 or possibly more since it would have to be taken the three stories of the building. The landlord advised them that they would be responsible for the cost. They have decided to regroup and concentrate on Pig on the Street for now and go after Todd for their deposit. Thank goodness they only gave him a deposit! These kids will be the death of me! How simple life must be without children! Still I guess they do bring you some pleasure over the years and one can always hope they will look after you in one's declining years!
Your timing sounds good to us. We were thinking of flying out on August 6th. It would mean we would have to leave for London on August 5th and stay at the Holiday Inn at Heathrow overnight since the flight is around lunchtime. I'm not sure where you are going in England before you venture west to Cornwall or wether you will be travelling by rented car or public transport. I will leave our car here and will check with my insurance company on adding you as a driver while you are here so you have transport. Unlike Canada it's the individual that's insured here for the vehicle that is being driven rather than the vehicle itself. My car is a standard gear shift rather than automatic. Most people over here drive standards. It's the quirky English mentality! I assume you are ok with a standard gear shift. We will take the coach from Truro to Heathrow.
When you leave Cornwall one of my sisters, Margaret, will be staying here to look after the cat while we remain in Canada. Also one of my other sisters, Maureen who lives in the apartment below us, will look after the cat if you decide to head off somewhere for a few days while you are here so please don't think you need to worry about our, or should I say the piggies, cat all the time you are here! I assume you wont be bringing your trusted steed over but I have mine here which you are welcome to make use of. Gayle said that you could probably use hers if we both wanted a ride while you are here since you are shorter than I am. Not sure whether or not she was being cheeky! Anyway, nearer the time we can sort out the logistics.
Just got a message from the kids. They are both in bed with a bug so can't get out on the street today. They are having rotten luck!
Gayle just called me for dinner so best dash. If I don't hear anything I will assume our proposed exit from this delightful realm will fit in with your plans.
Best wishes Derek
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